Rock climbing at Peilstein

Vegetarierwand, Stösserwand

The Vegetarierwand contains in the guidebook 33 routes, it is more like 20 with some using the same base starts, but the lenght of these routes is up to 55 m in grades ranging from 3 to 8-. The routes are quite vertical and very clean, not many loose rocks, well protected, it seems there are more bolts than mentioned in the guidebook, but the book is not the most recent.

The whole section is interesting and varied:
the Terzettkamin is a 5- on a 55m crack that will rack you brains more than once, wondering how to manage to get past the current crux, thinking, well from here in it must be easier, only to be deceived a few moments later by another easy looking, yet challenging section. The first pitch is constant and good, the second pitch, shorter and easier brings you to the top of the route, where a most welcome tree will give you some well deserved protection from the sun. One of the best cracks I have ever climbed, one like this over 300m and it would be heavenly...
Right next to it, is a more challenging, but equally interesting slab, a few shorter routes (23m), perfect for top roping, from 6+ to 8-.

Further along the right, start the long and easy climbs: 4 routes between 3 and 5+ on 55m.The 2 rightmost ones share the same start and are the most interesting. the first pitch is an easy 3 on about 20 meters and brings you to a relay next to a cross. From there you have to choice of climbing the slab, (Vegetarierkante, 4) or staying on the ridge (Direkte Vegetarierkante, 5+). while both are nice routes, the Direkte climbs along the ridge, offering a splendid view on the cliffs of the neighboring sections and the valley behind. A small overhang approximately in the middle offers the crux move, but nothing really hard. From the top of both routes, you can climb over a little hump and walk down the path back to the base (be careful, the rock are very used up and slippery), or rapell down (2x60 meter ropes are needed if you don't want to make it in 2 runs.).